From the Escuela, take the A356 North (that is, left at the Bar El Cruce) and drive uphill for around 6 minutes, and as you reach the Southern tip of the lake, take the right hand turning signposted Alhama de Granada.  Almost immediately afterwards, turn left, signposted Hotel La Viñuela, and the IMMEDIATE LEFT again, down a little lane leading to a parking area.  Here you will find the barbeque area, and beyond, a track that takes you around at least half of the lake shoreline.  It makes a lovely walk and if you look carefully you will see plenty of wildlife.

From the Escuela, take the main road South and join the A7 motorway due East, in the direction of Nerja.  Come off 15 minutes later at the SECOND exit for Nerja, (also marked Maro). NOTE: BE CAREFUL AT THE TORROX TUNNEL, AND STAY WITHIN THE SPEED LIMIT, AS THERE ARE RADAR SYSTEMS IN PLACE THAT NEVER FAIL!  Follow the signs to the Caves (Cuevas de Nerja).

NERJA CAVES

Nerja caves

These spectacular caves are classified as a national monument and its cathedral-like proportions and 63m long stalactites explain why!  And the story of the caves is very interesting.  In 1959 five local boys, aimed with curiosity and a sense of adventure, squeezed through a gap in the hillside to discover these incredible wonders of nature hidden from us since ancient times, known only to the local bats.  The discovery of the caves, ancient paintings and signs of early human life, caused a sensation adn the caves are now a tourist magnet and venue for numerous concerts held in the main cave.

The caves are open in the Summer form 10.00 to 19.30 at a cost of around 8.50€ per person (check www.cuevadenerja.com for up-to-date information).

At the entance to the caves you will find several bars and restaurants if you wish to take a refreshment before heading on to Frigiliana.

FRIGILIANA

From the caves, follow the signs to Nerja/Frigliana, cross under the motorway and take the road inland to the village.  It is best to park on the outskirts of town.

A Frigiliana street

This village is known today for its immaculate streets decked with flowers and its many shops, cafés, bars and restaurants with spectacular views of the mountains and the sea.  It has as repulation for winning Best Kept Village of Andalucía and villagers today are proud of it!

Make you way on foot up past the ‘El Ingenio’ building, (once the centre of the sugar-cane industry in the village) and follow the narrow streets heading uphill to the top of the village.  There are many interesting shops and pretty restaurants with outdoor terraces ideal for lunch but especially beautiful at sunset, when you can sip the local raisin wine, “vino de Frigiliana” (comes in dry (seco) and sweet (dulce) versions) and if you are lucky, try the “chorizo al infierno” and watch the sun drop, blazing red, into the sea – very romantic!

If you are having lunch, find a shady table on one of the many terraces, relax and enjoy!!

Frigiliana may seem a picturesque tourist village, but it is here that you need to be ‘in the know’ about its quie different, not so distant past.  For after the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 39) this village, as were many others, became victim to a second, longer and devastating battle fought between the anti-Franco regime guerrillas (known as the “maquis”) hidden in the nearby mountains and the Civil Guard, who where hunting them out.  Many of the villagers fled deep into the Sierra at the end of the Civil War, but others, caught between fear and a desire to just get on with life, lived in silence, poverty and wary caution, both helping to support those hiding in the hills and being severely punished if caught.  Others, more loyal to the France regime, were on guard to pass on information and were severely punished by the “maquis”.  To read more about this fascinating moment in the history of Spain, from the mouths of the old folks themselves in the village, I recomment you read Peter Baird’s “Between Two Fires”.  It is a most enlightening and moving read.

This sets the theme nicely for the next leg of this day-trip, and move deeper into the magical mountains of which Frigiliana is the gateway, to seek out what is locally known as the Village of Ghosts, Acebuchal.

ACEBUCHAL

Acebuchal today

From Frigiliana, take the MA9102 running North West out of Frigiliana, and look out of the right-hand turn-off for Acebuchal, then follow the signs, winding your way deeper into the pine forests and into wilder countryside, until you come across this gleaming white, hidden little gem of a village!

There are two big surprises to find in this village.  The first, that although small, and so remote, it is STUNNINGLY beautiful!  I will say no more, as I do not wish to spoil the joy of discovering it for yourselves.

When you have walked around and no doubt taken lots of photos, head to the top of the village and the only bar in town, near the car park.  As you walk inside, take a look at the photos on the wall to discover the second big secret.

Whilst, back in the 1940′s, the “maquis” hid out in the mountains, they frequently used this remote, hidden hamlet with its quiet country folk, to stock up on supplies.  Family members from sugar-growing Frigiliana and the poverty-stricken fishing village of Nerja brought supplies here and took news back to relatives and friends.  The Civil Guard were constantly routing thorugh the village in search of guerrillas and blood was regularly spilled.  Then one day in 1949, the Civil Guard arrived in the village and ordered the entire population of Acebuchal to drop what they were doing and leave, never to return.  They were forced to leave everything behind, their homes, livestock and crops and the village was left empty, desolate and frequently guarded.  And so it remained, abandoned and falling into decay and eventually into ruins.  Only they ghosts of the past, they say, remained, and the wind ever-blowing through the pines, standing sentinel around it.

Acebuchal in ruins

It was not until 1998, 23 years after Franco’s death, that a local couple, Antonio and Virtudes, bought a large proportion of the village and set about restoring its houses and breathing life back into its streets!  And the result is today’s wonderful mountain gem!  Antonio’s family run the bar, so look at the photos and chat, if you can, to this incredible family!  You can stay here too, as many of the houses are now for holiday rentals.

If you enjoy this day and want ot know another trip into mountains and fascinating Spanish history ask us about “Venta Panaderos” (the Breadmakers’ Inn) and how to find it!

The proud owner of this fabulous country house is offering the let of two bedrooms with breakfast included, only via Escuela La Crujia.  Each room has its own double patio doors onto the terraces and so there is no need to disturb the owner, as you can come and go as you please.  There is a double room with double bed and small ensuite shower room, plus a twin room.  There is also a family bathroom for exclusive use of the guests when they are staying here.

The views are spectacular and the whole property offers total peace and quiet and some lovely country scenery.  There is a great pool and sun bathing terrace to enjoy and outside barbeque and eating facilities.

Casa El Cerro is just a couple of Kms from the shops, bars and restaurants of both Alcaucin village, (a typical Andalusian whitewashed village) and the hamlet of Puente Don Manuel.  It is located just 15 minutes’ drive from the Escuela.

For rates and availability, call or email us at escuelalacrujia@gmail.com

This delightful country house is available for rent most of the year.  It has gardens and a lovely pool and the most beautiful views!  It has two double bedrooms and one twin room and sleeps 6 people.  There is a family bathroom and an ensuite bathroom to the master bedroom.  The kitchen is fully fitted and all bedding and equipment is provided.

The village has two bar/restaurants and the town of Villanueva is just 5 minutes’ drive through lovely countryside.  Nearby also is the famous Torcal mountain range, ideal for walking, and beyond that beautiful and fascinating Antequera town.

Malaga is within one hour’s reach.

Contact us for more details, pricing and availability.

We are completing a new covered barbeque dining area with tiled floor, and rustic wooden structure, from which we will hang curtains.

And we have built a beautiful table with Andalusian tiles for dining in style!

Our wonderful, ancient Arabic-tiled roof is having a careful makeover too!

We hope you will enjoy our facilities when you stay at Escuela La Crujia!

March 2012

From the Escuela, head to the Bar El Cruce and turn left, inland along the A356 and keep to this road, passing Lake Viñuela to your right.  At Casabermeja, some 20 minutes further along this road, keep on going, not turning off the road, and after crossing the A45 motorway, you will find the road narrows and the countryside changes quite quickly, giving way to wheat fields, broad beans plantations and rolling hills.  The imposing, rocky Torcal mountain range becomes visible as you wind your way up to Villanueva.

Note, as you approach the town, the pretty views to the right and the lovely backdrop of the mountains as you climb the slope of the main street.  Before you get to the T junction, park and explore the pretty streets and square off to the left, and maybe take a drink in one of the bars with outdoor terraces at the T junction. Villanueva de la Concepción is a relatively new town, established officially in 1880, as a textile manufacturing town where a high percentage of the women were working and earning their own money long before other women could even consider work outside the home!

When you have strolled around the town, (don’t spend long here, there is much to do!) turn right at the T junction in the direction of Antequera and up, out of the town towards El Torcal.  Take a clearly marked sign to El Torcal on the left, a few Kms outside the town and follow the road towards the top of the mountain.  You will be amazed! The landscape changes so dramatically that you may wonder whether you have suddenly been magically teletransported to the moon!  Strange rock formations everywhere, full of odd shapes forming faces and fanatistic animal shapes.

At the end of the road, you will find a visitor centre which is well worth exploring, to learn more about this fascinating mountain top.  From here, there are a number of colour coded walks, some longer than others, so this is where you put on your walking boots and explore!  Also, follow the signs on the left to the Mirador (lookout point) to view the entire valley to the South, with Villanueva nestling below, and Malaga city and port in the distance, set against the vast expanse of the Mediterranean sea.  An information panel here tells you how these rocks were formed and how the whole thing used to be below sea level!  There is also a look-out diagram pointing out the landmarks to spot in the distance.

Back on the Antequera road, you will travel through lovely countryside, scattered with old ‘cortijos’ (ancient farmhouses from a bygone age) and in through the back way to the ancient and historic town of Antequera.

Antequera is packed with monuments, including around 50 churches dating back to Medieval times, and culminating in the magnificent Alcazaba, perched at the very top of this ancient city, and dating from the thirteenth to fourteenth century.  On the outskirts of the town, to the North East are the famous and most fascinating Dolmens, ancient Megalithic tombs of great significance for Spain and all of Europe.  There are three, built at different times (between 3ooo and 5000 BC) and they are well worth a visit.  Look out for the interesting engravings on the entrance pillars to the most ancient dolmen of the three, the Menga dolmen, and when you see them and pass through the entrance, bear in mind that the stone slab forming the roof of the entrance is estimated to weigh 180 tonnes!!  How did they get it there?!

You can buy guides to Antequera in the town itself, or check out the many guides online before you get there.  Here are some that are useful:

Antequera – The Virtual Tourist

Antequera – Official Tourist Website (in Spanish)

This one tells you where to go within the city!

There are many excellent restaurants in Antequera and you might fancy ending your day here, in this most interesting ancient town, before heading back South to our Escuela.  Take the motorway route back, the A45 to Malaga but come off at the sign for “Velez-Ma” by Casabermeja and follow the A356 back to us.

Sheep on road, Zafarraya

Keep going along a very straight road, for a number of Kms, until you come to the Bar Restaurante San Marcos and a big Hotel right in front.  Park here.  (For Winter explorers the Bar San Marcos has a wonderful old fireplace with a welcoming fire always burning in the hearth.  The fireplace is so large, there are even tables and chairs inside it, for a snug, warm Winter lunchtime or a drink).

After a refreshing drink at San Marcos, take the track to the right of the hotel.  This is a most beautiful road which takes you deep into the natural park of the Sierra de Tejeda within an area known as El Robledal.  You can stop at any point and take a walk, and if you listen carefully you will hear all sorts of birds and animals in the trees and countryside all around!  If you go far enough you will reach the start of the least strenuous walk up to the peak of the Maroma mountain (visible from Escuela La Crujia gardens, and the highest mountain peak in Malaga province) but for the purposes of this specific daytrip, this is not advisable, as you need  a whole day for that, and a lot of energy!  On this road you might also see some wonderful old crumbling ‘corijos’ or farmhouses, monuments to a lost, past way of life.

Back in the car, drive back to the hotel, and continue along the road in the direction of Alhama de Granada.  Before reaching the town, look out for the sign to the right to Jatar/Arenas del Rey.  Take this (spot the cave house on your right as you drive along).  A few minutes along this road, you will c

El Ventorro

ome to the magnificent Presa de Alhama (Alhama dam), a beautiful spot with calm waters and a couple of bird watching centres to view the many waterfoul that breed here in the Spring and stop here at various times of the year.  Park in the tree-shaded car parking area to the right of the Bar El Ventorro.

From here, you can follow footpaths down to the edge of the lake by walking back, past the dam waterfall, and looking for the paths on your left.  Or, continue on past El Ventorro, and past the next door establishment, El Pato Loco, and a little way after that, on the right hand side, follow a country lane through poplar trees along the river Alhama.  A lovely place to walk, especially in the Autumn!

El Pato Loco pool

Hungry now?  Here you have a choice – try both bars with a pre-lunch drink! El Ventorro, an old-world, rustic style bar and restaurant, is full of atmosphere and very pleasant.  To the rear, it boasts rooms to stay, within a series of caves dug out of the rock, and a lovely private spa, in Arabic style splendour!

El Pato Loco (The Mad Duck), next door, is a huge restaurant seating 500+ people with a large feature fireplace to the far end.  But what’s special about this place is that here, there is a huge open air pool, for use of its clientele.  So this is the ideal place, after a meal, to while away the remainder of the afternoon splashing in the pool or louning in the sun, surrounded by the local inhabitants of Alhama.  Great, too, if you just wish to relax with a coffee after lunch and send the kids off to play in the pool and practice their Spanish with the local children!

Head back the way you came,  for the shortest route back, but if you have time a quick trip into Alhama itself is worth while, or, from Pato Loco, continue on, turning towards Arenas del Rey, then on to Fornes, discovering the wonders of beautiful Lake Bermejales.

From the lower square in Alhama next to the petrol station, take the road marked to Granada.  Around 3 or 4Kms outside the town, past the Balneario (spa), take the right hand turn marked Pantano de los Bermejales (Bermejales Reservoir).  Follow this beautiful road past almond groves and then pine trees, after a short while getting your first glimses of this magnificent reservoir.  When you reach the cobbled bridge over the damn, if you can, stop briefly in the middle or nearby and look over each side: on the reservoir side, the beautiful, still waters of this man-made glory and you will most likely see fishes swimming near the dam wall.  On the other, the huge, dramatic drop down to the river; note how here they generate electricity for the whole of the local area using hydro- electric generators.

Continue of over the bridge and into Bermejales village and take an early right hand turn signposted (BAR) MIRADOR, and you will reach “the beach”, right on the shores of the lake.  The mountain backdrop, often reflected in the water like a mirror, is one that has been photographed by many an awestruck tourist or country explorer, and it is certainly one to contemplate, as here nature is all around, and little sign of human presence is evident!  To the right is the Bar Mirador which (when open) is a great place to have a drink or a meal, contemplating this lovely corner of Andalusia.

Beyond Bermejales are several little towns and villages to explore and you can travel by car all around the lake, stopping at secluded beaches, rocky rivers and pretty pine forests.  We recommend you take a cooling dip in the lake, either at the Mirador or at any point takes your fancy.

When you are finally ready to move on, head down to the coast to end your day perhaps with an evening meal at one of the very pretty coastal towns of Granada province and be prepared to be amazed by the beauty of the route I am now going to take you on to get there!

Route to the coast:

From Bermejales village, at the bar El Cruce, turn right and follow the narrow road along the lakeside and past the campsite, where, by the way, there is also an excellent restaurant, and further pretty beaches.  After a few Kms, you will come to a crossroads.  Turn right in the direction of Fornes and Jayena and keep going along the road to Jayena, a small country town, and out the other side.  A little way out of town, take the road the Almuñecar.   You will be travelling through natural parkland all around you.  Allow time, and daylight, to make your way down this mountain road to the coast, because you’re really going to appreciate it!  The countryside is stunning, and with every turn of the road, a more inviting and beautiful landscape comes to view, with the eventual backdrop of the sparkling Mediterranean sea, glistening beyond the mountain pines, and beaconing the weary traveler towards its enchanting shores!

Almuñecar is a busy, lively town frequented mainly by ‘granadinos’ from the city looking to escape for weekends and holidays.  See this link for more about Almuñecar.

Sunset over La Herradura (from www.playas.es)

From Almuñecar, take the A7 motorway in the direction of Malaga and come off at Km 272 for Velez-Malaga and home to the Escuela.  But for an evening meal not to be forgotten, come off at La Herradura, just past Almuñecar, and head down to the seafront.  Turn left and head to the furthest beach bar on the Eastern end of town, the magnicent Chambao de Joaquin.  Here, you can have a romantic meal by the lapping shoreline and watch the sun go down to the West, lighting up the waves of this enchanting horseshoe-shaped bay.  And as the sun is swallowed up, the twinkling lights of the town, its many beach bars and the Chambao de Joaquin will cast a magical atmosphere over this delightful little place, a perfect way to end your day!

From the Escuela, head to the Bar El Cruce and then left onto the main A356 road heading inland.  Take the right hand turning signposted Alcaucin, just before Lake Viñuela and keep going on this road, straight past the Periana crossroads and the bars and restaurants, and up the winding mountain road and through the spectacular U shaped Zafarraya mountain pass which marks the boundary between the provinces of Malaga and Granada.

Drive through Ventas de Zafarraya, a border town dedicated entirely to open field vegetable growing, and at the end of the village, turn left, (rather than following the road right which is signposted Alhama) as this is a little bit of a short cut, and head across the flat vegetable growing plains of Zafarraya and into the hills beyond.  Fifteen minutes of driving along this road brings you over the rim of a hill and you will see the town of Alhama de Granada below you, with the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in the distance (on clear days).  You are now well into the wonderful area known locally as the Poniente Granadino (Western Granada province).

As you come down the hill to the main road into Alhama, you can turn left at the T junction, or better still, go straight across and down the steep hill all the way into the lower town square.  Park here if you can, or in a nearby street.  Walk up the hill on the East side of the square (petrol station and exit towards Granada on the West side) and you will come to the Plaza de la Constitución, on the left at the top of the hill, where you wll find a number of very nice cafés with outdoor tables and chairs to refresh yourselves and take in the atmosphere.  Across the square from the cafés is the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) with its little tourist office where you can pick up a map and chat to the friendly staff.  Follow the street the town hall is in, and this will take you to the old part of town, known as the Barrio Árabe (Arab quarters).  On the right, by the gorge, there is a wonderful old church well worth exploring both outside and in.  Built in the 16th century. shortly after the Christians had pushed the Moors out, after some 800 years of occupation, this buildling was erected outside the old Arab city walls, within the newly expanding city.  The Iglesia del Carmen was originally built as a convent and following major damage during the massive earthquake of 1884 and other turbulent historical events, it became a church for public worship, supported heavily by local wealthy families.  It is full of barroque classical features and detail with a fascinating and ornate domed ceiling.

Behind the church, lookout points offer you spectacular views of the deep gorge below, chiselled over thousands of years by the river, running snake-like at the bottom, and into the open countryside beyond.  Look out for the decaying old water mills scattered, as if discarded carelessly by time, along the river banks.

From here you can take steps down to the bottom of the gorge and stroll along the ‘tajo’ and inspect the mills at close range.  Continue walking for as long as you like, and enjoy this beautiful, almost arrogantly proud natural phenomenon!

Back in the town, explore at your leisure the many little squares, 100-year-old shop interiors and old buildings and then head back to the car, as we are now going to visit the hot springs.

From the lower square, take the road by the petrol station on the West side, signposted to Granada and wind your way out of town, viewing the gorge from the other side this time, as you look back on the town.  3Kms outside town, take the turning to the left, marked Balneario (Hot Spa) just before the bridge over the river.  Follow this narrow road between solid rock walls on either side, to the Balneario and park.  Here you have three choices:

-          Swimsuit-clad, climb down the rocks on the left just over the bridge and slip into the soothing mineral waters of the spring which maintain a constant temperature all year round of 42 degrees C.  There are several rock pools, the top one being the warmest.  Even in Winter this is a most wonderful experience, although getting changed afterwards in the open can be a little complicated and, in colder months, challenging affair!

-          Cross the bridge and turn left along the footpath and head for the public spa pool to enjoy the same hot spring waters in a slightly more dignified manner!  Here, there are changing rooms, but you do pay a few Euros for the priviledge, and check the Balneario website for opening and closing times.

-          A path along the other side of the river takes you on a rather pleasant walk under the shade of all, leafy trees, very pleasant indeed!

My choice, every time is the first option!  It is lovely even in the rain!

From Alhama there are more places to explore.  So if you want to leave time to do something else after Alhama, or you want to know what else to do in this area, check out one of the following posts:

Day trip to Lake Bermejales returning via Almuñecar
Granada city and the Albaicin
Walk and swim: La Alcaicería, Los Ventorros and El Pato Loco

And check this link for a visual taster of Alhama

The apartment, located just 5 minutes from Escuela La Crujía, consists of a large, comportable lounge with TV and airconditioning, fully fitted modern kitchen with washing machine, a family bathroom, twin room (with two single beds) and large double room (with double bed) with en-suite bathroom and a nice balcony.

The apartment is on the second floor and there is private parking available.

The apartment is also available for long term lets.

For more details and rental rates, please email us.